Haper’s Bazaar : The order of the silhouette: when the design returns to the structure itself

Apr 6
2 min read

The order of the silhouette: when the design returns to the structure itself_Harper's Bazaar_BAZAAR Chinese website

WRIT LARGE with NATC JEWELS Jewelry

At La Galerie Bourbon in Paris, Flying Solo presents a rare restraint this season's Paris Fashion Week. Compared with the visual narrative common in fashion week, this release is more like a study of "shape" - refocusing attention on the structure and proportion of clothing. The rational order of the space itself provides an implicit reference for this expression, making the structure of clothing closer to a "viewed architecture".

More than 50 independent designers participated, making the whole series present a diverse but clear direction: de-stylization and emphasizing the design language itself. The trend is deliberately weakened and replaced by continuous exploration of silhouettes and structures - just like the repeated and changing facades in the urban texture, establishing an overall order in the differences.

Lines become dominant. The shoulder structure is emphasized or dissolved to form different fulcrums; the silhouette of the body is converted between straight lines and curves, so that the body is no longer a modified object, but becomes a parallel to the clothing. This relationship is closer to the scale dialogue between the building and the human body: the structure not only defines the outline, but also leaves space for movement. The cutting achieves a balance between precision and relaxation, and the traditional straightening is reprocessed, presenting a more flexible modern state.

The change of volume constitutes the rhythm. Wide and narrow, closing and releasing alternate, forming a dynamic proportion between walking. This rhythm is similar to the opening and closing relationship in urban space - the conversion between facades, passages and gaps, so that the viewing is constantly reorganized in the movement. The opening and closing of the coat and the stacking of trousers all make the clothing gain a new structural relationship in sports.

The fabric plays a functional role here. Wool provides a stable skeleton, while lightweight fabrics weaken the boundaries and make the silhouette change in movement. The switching between different materials is not only a visual contrast, but also an extension of the structure, so that the clothing maintains a continuous tension between static and dynamic.

In the following show image, these relationships between structure and proportion are placed in the dynamic. With the change of pace and turn, the silhouette is constantly redefined, so that the order in the design presents a clearer and more three-dimensional outline in the movement.

Photography: Michael Froelich, Bastien Dubois Leichtnam, Kamara Ramata, Gautier Chauffrut

Video: Mariya Nicole, Liana Zakarashvili, Yuliia Kovalevska, Daria Teroshkina

Creative Director: Alina Kotsiuba

Executive production: Elizabeth Solomeina

Backstage Director: Jaqueline Lunke